5 Textile Trends From Premiere Vision Paris

 

Benjamin Fitzgerald

For three whole days, Premiere Vision Paris sets up its tradeshow home twice a year, just north of the city of lights at Paris' Nord Villepinte. Attracting the best textile manufacturers and designers to exhibit their wares, Le Souk recaps five textile trends from Premiere Vision 2015, set to hit the runways of the biggest fashion houses come spring 2016.

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Showcasing the six major industries that supply materials and services to the global fashion market (Yarns, Fabrics, Leather, Designs, Accessories and Manufacturing), thousands of designers, suppliers and manufacturers alike ascended on the French capital this February to witness the latest developments in textile innovation and learn exactly what’s trending (and will continue to trend) in the upcoming season of 2016.

 

Premiere Vision Paris prides itself on its rigorous screening process – allowing only the best designers to show-off their fiber choices, colour-wheels and textural plays. For manufacturers of cloth, it is a den of inspiration – somewhere fashion and interiors creatives can revel in one another’s latest material inventions. And just as importantly, set the trends for fashion designers to work-off.

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TREND 1: Effeminate suiting

The dandy immediately springs to mind when color and pattern collide with suiting. Brazilian exhibitor RenauxView pushed the serious suit into the candy store with bold brights and saccharine hues dyed into fabrics destined for the tailors. Coined ‘Seriously Fancy’, the trend of effeminate suiting was lead by RenauxView and their cheeky statement textiles in decorative looks. Made by local spinners in the south of Brazil, RenauxView’s dobby knit pattern and print weave textures defined men’s suits as natural and made from lightweight 100% cotton thread.

Italy’s Piacenza showcased fabrics and accessories in vicuna, qiviuk, pure cashmere and baby llama. In splittable double facing weave, the Biella-based cashmere expert set the bar high for luxury tailoring. 

Equally expert were the restyled traditional tartans, donegals and tweeds showcased by Robert Noble. The Scottish mill’s large patterns and lively colors were woven from lambswool or cashmere and came blended with silk or linen. And, like RenauxView, they offered a rich color palette but with more autumnal hues.

France’s Dormeuil were another innovative exhibitor with Made in England designs for traditional suiting in extra-fine wool, mohair, cashmere and pashmina. Petit window-paned checks in cobalt blue and yellow contributed to the effeminate dandy effect at PV.

TREND 2: Lace Open Cuts Here to Stay

 

According to PV Paris, openwork lace is not going anywhere in 2016. France’s Codentel set the pace with its exceptional Leavers loom lace, which it has been knitting since 1870. The delicate fabric, suitable for haute couture and lingerie, is made from sequences knitted with many ‘holes’ to make the fabric look almost like netting. Key examples for PV include the ‘White Duchess’ and ‘Floral French’ lace. 

Sophie Hallette’s Leavers lace supported the open cut trend for lace. The French manufacturer exhibited its ‘Chantilly’ and ‘Guipure’ lace from rayon and nylon blends and pure cotton. The tulle bobbinet – an open and reticular textile fabric consisting of warp and weft – came in a triblend of mohair, silk and rayon.

TREND 3: Piqué and Honeycomb Textures

 

Subtle honeycomb and piqué patterns hived together as a key PV trend. Print and texture formed to embody the athleisure trend, bringing some fancy elegance to activewear. 

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Peru’s Naturtex and its 100% natural cotton fabric was a pivotal merchant in setting this trend. The South American’s combed Fair Trade cotton made from organic Pima is ideal for sweatshirts and tees. With a 165 GSM cloth weight, the colors of the honeycomb cloth are always eco-inspired white, as well as the earthy hue of a bee’s home with alterations of brown and beige.

TREND 4: Do Not Be Afraid to be Bold

 

Vibrant colors for men and women splashed over effeminate suiting and athleisure’s sports fashion hybrids at PV in Paris - coming together to create a bold, casual elegance. Textural jacquard from France's Deveaux came like a canary in geometric yellow, posing in an acrylic and elastane blend ideal for jersey sportswear. Roannes-based fabric maker also held a Lurex-blend red and white speckled for added boldness.

Italy’s Proposte offered a standout woven fabric in nylon silk blend. Comprised of hot orange, neon pink, and white the weave resembled eighties sportswear hues, perfect for sweats and kept light in a 95 GSM weight.

TREND 5: Dense, Fruity and Sparkly

 

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Thick, heavy pineapple yellows with gold flecks and threads wove densely at PV - a rebellion against the light and airy fabrics that trended last year for SS15. EcoSimple's recycled polyester and cotton striped sparkle fabric embodies the tropical heaviness of PV in Paris. The rib weave works its sparkle over coats, jackets, sweaters, trousers and interiors and densely so, with 350 GSM weight.

The Premiere Vision Paris tradeshow runs from February 10-12 at Paris-Nord Villepinte. Click here for more information.

 
Benita Singh